Short answer: implant-grade titanium (ASTM F136 or F67) is the safest metal for sensitive skin and fresh piercings, because it contains no nickel at all. Surgical steel, despite its name, contains 10–14% nickel and can still cause reactions. Niobium is an excellent alternative. Solid nickel-free gold of 14k or higher is generally safe once healed.
If your earrings itch, weep or turn the skin red within hours of wearing them, the metal is almost always the cause — not your skin being "difficult".
Why nickel is the problem
Nickel is the most common cause of contact allergy in Europe. Estimates place sensitivity at roughly 10–15% of women and a smaller share of men, and once you develop it, it is permanent.
The reaction is not an infection. It is your immune system responding to nickel ions released as the metal meets moisture and skin. Typical signs are itching, redness, small blisters, dry patches and a piercing that never quite settles.
UK and EU law limits how much nickel jewellery may release. Under REACH restrictions, items inserted into pierced skin must stay below 0.2 micrograms per square centimetre per week, and items in prolonged contact with skin below 0.5. The important detail: this is a limit on release, not a ban on nickel content. Jewellery can legally contain nickel and still comply — until the plating wears or the surface corrodes.
Metal comparison
| Metal | Nickel content | Safe for fresh piercings? | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|
| Implant-grade titanium (ASTM F136) | None | Yes | The professional standard. Lightweight, biocompatible. |
| Commercially pure titanium (ASTM F67) | None | Yes | Equally safe; softer than F136. |
| Niobium | None | Yes | Excellent but less widely stocked. |
| 14k–18k solid gold (nickel-free) | Varies | Sometimes | Must be certified nickel-free. Some white gold uses nickel. |
| "Surgical steel" (316L) | 10–14% | Not ideal | Compliant but still releases trace nickel. |
| Sterling silver | Usually low | No | Tarnishes and can stain healing tissue. |
| Plated or "gold-filled" | Often in base | No | Plating wears through to the base metal. |
The problem with "surgical steel"
The phrase sounds medical, and that is largely the point. 316L stainless steel is used in some medical instruments, but it is an alloy containing 10–14% nickel by weight.
A well-finished 316L piece may release little enough nickel to comply with the law and suit most people. But for someone already sensitised, or for a piercing still healing, "low release" is not the same as "no nickel". This is why professional piercers reach for titanium, not steel, when starting a piercing.
What ASTM F136 actually means
ASTM F136 is a material specification, not a marketing word. It describes Ti-6Al-4V ELI — a titanium alloy with extra-low interstitial elements, held to the standard used for surgical implants placed inside the body.
It contains no nickel. It resists corrosion in body fluids. It is around 40% lighter than steel, which matters for cartilage piercings where weight causes irritation over time.
Read more about the material we use →
Nickel-free titanium pieces
Every piece below is implant-grade ASTM F136 titanium — no nickel, no plating over base metal.
How to tell if it's an allergy or an infection
These are different problems with different answers.
An allergic reaction typically appears within hours of putting the jewellery in, produces itching more than pain, affects the skin touching the metal, and improves when the piece is swapped for titanium.
An infection usually develops over days, is more painful than itchy, may involve heat, swelling, coloured discharge or fever, and does not improve simply by changing metal.
If you have signs of infection, or symptoms that persist or worsen, see your GP or a registered piercer rather than treating it yourself. Do not remove jewellery from an infected piercing without advice, as this can trap the infection.
Frequently asked questions
Is titanium hypoallergenic?
Implant-grade titanium is nickel-free and among the most biocompatible metals available. True allergy to titanium is very rare.
Is surgical steel safe if I have a nickel allergy?
Not reliably. 316L contains 10–14% nickel. Titanium is the safer choice.
What is the difference between ASTM F136 and F67?
F136 is a titanium alloy with excellent strength; F67 is commercially pure titanium. Both are implant grade and nickel-free.
Can I wear gold in a new piercing?
Solid 14k or higher, certified nickel-free, is acceptable to many piercers — but titanium remains the standard for initial healing.
Why do cheap earrings make my ears itch?
They are usually plated over a nickel-bearing base metal. As the plating wears, nickel reaches the skin.
Does gold plating protect against nickel?
Only while intact. Plating is measured in microns and wears with friction and moisture.
Can a nickel allergy develop later in life?
Yes. Sensitisation can occur at any age after repeated exposure, and it is permanent.
Shop nickel-free titanium
- Ear & Helix — implant-grade titanium
- Nose & Septum — implant-grade titanium
- Belly & Navel — implant-grade titanium
Not sure which size you need? Our gauge size guide explains 16G, 14G and how to measure. Wondering how long healing takes? See our healing timeline.